Mt Kun Expedition

Days: 17D/16N
Altitude: 7077
Distance: 110
Grade: Difficult
Pick Up: Kargil
Drop: Kargil
Base Camp: Kun Base Camp
Season: Monsoon (Jul–Aug)
Stay: Tents & Homestay

The Mt. Kun Expedition (7077 M) stands among the most demanding and prestigious 7000-meter Himalayan expeditions in India. Located in the remote and rugged Suru Valley of Ladakh, Mt. Kun is not merely a high-altitude climb—it is a true test of elite mountaineering skill, endurance, and expedition discipline.

At 7,077 meters, Mt. Kun is the second highest peak entirely within Indian territory and forms part of the formidable Nun–Kun massif, which dominates the Zanskar range skyline. Unlike training peaks or introductory 6000-meter summits, Mt. Kun demands advanced technical proficiency, strong glacier travel skills, confidence on steep ice and snow faces, and the ability to operate efficiently for extended periods above 6,000 meters.

The expedition begins in Kargil (2,676 M), a historic Himalayan town that serves as the gateway to the Suru Valley. The initial days are intentionally structured for careful acclimatization, recognizing that long-term success on a 7000-meter peak depends on gradual altitude exposure rather than aggressive ascent.

The approach route via Shafat Nala introduces trekkers to a stark alpine environment—wide glacier valleys, massive moraine systems, and towering ice walls. Establishing Base Camp at 4,540 M, the expedition enters a full alpine-style phase, involving multiple load ferry rotations, fixed route preparation, rope fixing, and staged camp movements.

Climbing Mt. Kun requires operating across three high camps:

  • Camp I (5,300 M) on glaciated terrain
  • Camp II (6,100 M) positioned beneath steep ice slopes
  • Summit Camp (6,400 M) exposed to extreme cold and wind

The route includes crevasse navigation, fixed rope sections, sustained snow slopes, and high-angle ice climbing, all under unpredictable weather conditions. Oxygen availability drops drastically above 6,500 meters, making pace control, hydration, and mental focuscritical.

Summit day on Mt. Kun is long, unforgiving, and technically intense. Climbers leave Summit Camp well before midnight, ascending steep snow and ice faces under headlamp light, with wind chill temperatures often dropping below -25°C. The final summit ridge is narrow, exposed, and demands absolute precision.

Reaching the summit of Mt. Kun (7077 M) is a landmark achievement in any mountaineer’s career. From the top, climbers witness vast Himalayan expanses stretching across Zanskar, Karakoram foothills, and distant Greater Himalayan ranges—a reward reserved only for those who have endured weeks of disciplined preparation.

The Mt. Kun Expedition is recommended only for climbers who have:

  • Successfully climbed 6000–6500 M peaks
  • Experience with rope systems, fixed lines, and ice climbing
  • Strong expedition mindset and altitude tolerance

Terranova Expedition conducts Mt. Kun with strict safety protocols, experienced expedition leaders, structured rotation plans, and conservative summit decision-making, ensuring that the climb prioritizes climber safety over aggressive summit attempts.

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—Our itinerary is the most comprehensive and professionally structured expedition guide.

HIGHLIGHTS OF THE MT. KUN EXPEDITION

  • Summit a 7,000-meter Himalayan giant
  • One of the most technically demanding peaks in India
  • True multi-camp alpine expedition experience
  • Glacier travel, crevasse navigation & ice climbing
  • Fixed rope sections & high-angle snow faces
  • Extended time above 6,000 meters
  • Remote and untouched Suru Valley terrain
  • Elite-level mountaineering achievement

Itinerary

Day 1

Arrival in Kargil (2,676 M) | Reporting, Rest & Initial Acclimatization

Day 2

Acclimatization Day at Kargil

Day 3

Kargil to Shafat Nala (Transit Camp – 3,926 M)

Day 4

Trek to Chasme Camp (4,001 M)

Day 5

Trek to Kun Base Camp (4,540 M)

Day 6

Rest Day & Equipment Distribution / Load Ferry (Optional)

Day 7

Load Ferry to Camp I (5,300 M)

Day 8

Move to Camp I (5,300 M)

Day 9

Rest Day at Camp I / Route Opening Toward Camp II

Day 10

Move to Camp II (6,100 M)

Day 11

Move to Summit Camp (6,400 M)

Day 12

Summit Attempt (7,077 M)

Day 13

Reserve Summit Days

Day 14

Reserve Summit Days

Day 15

Summit Camp to Camp I (5,300 M)

Day 16

Camp I to Base Camp

Day 17

Trek to Shafat Nala & Drive to Kargil

Inclusions & Exclusions

What’s included

  • You will be staying in tents during expedition on sharing basis.
  • Stay included in Kargil hotel (sharing basis).
  • Transport from Kargil to Last road head & return
  • Breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks, soup, tea, hot drinks during expedition [Day 1 Dinner Day 17 Dinner]
  • High altitude meals.
  • Expedition permits & peak booking from Indian Mountaineering Foundation (For Indians)
  • Local National Park Permit Tourism department
  • High Risk medical insurance
  • Garbage cleaning charges.
  • Weather forecast report from the Indian Meteorological department & Windy.
  • Certificate of accomplishment
  • 3 men all season high altitude tents & high altitude tents, sleeping bag, mattress, kitchen tent, cutlery, dining & meeting tent & toilet tent, table & stool till base camp.
  • First aid, medical kit, oxygen cylinders, Blood pressure monitor, Oximeter, etc. will be available at all
  • campsites to deal with emergencies.
  • Ice axe, snow boots, harness, carabiners, ascenders, descenders, gaiters, helmet, crampons, tape sling (all necessary safety & climbing gears)
  • Certified Expedition leader & Experienced Sherpas from Terranova Expedition.
  • Base Camp Manager
  • Cook, helper, mules support base camp.
  • High altitude cooks and supporting staffs for upper camp
  • Cloakroom facility for left luggage.

What’s not included

  • Mules or porters charge to carry personal luggage [Offload].
  • 5% GST
  • Any kind of personal expenses.
  • Expedition permits from Indian Mountaineering Foundation (For Foreigners)
  • Liaison Officer (For Foreigners)
  • Any early return travel costs or accommodation except for the days as per the itinerary.
  • Anything apart from inclusions.
  • Documentary filming, camera, and drone permit fee (if require)
  • Any emergency evacuation.
  • ASC 360 Insurance (Mandatory for Ladakh Region)
  • Tips for staffs

 

Refund & Cancellation

Quick Summary
Policy WindowRefund
30+ days before departure85%
20–29 days70%
15–19 days50%
7–14 days25%
< 7 days or no-showNo refund
If You Cancel
  • Advance/booking amount is non-refundable; reschedule credit may be offered if requested ≥ 7 days before departure.
  • Government permits, insurance, accommodation and transport already paid to vendors are non-refundable.
  • Force majeure (weather, landslides, strikes, roadblocks, government orders): trip may be postponed; paid amounts remain non-refundable; credit/reschedule may be offered where possible.
  • Unused services, early return or partial participation do not qualify for refunds.
  • Refunds are processed to the original payment method; allow 7–10 business days.
  • Name change/transfer possible until permits are issued; afterward, standard cancellation terms apply.

Things to Carry

Footwear

  • Waterproof Trekking Shoes [1 pair] Floaters / Slippers [1 pair] Socks [4-5 pair]

Clothing Layers

  • Quick dry T Shirts [3-4] Quick Dry Trek Pants [2] Windproof Pants for Sumit [1] Down Jacket [1] Thermal [1 set] Fleece [1] Windproof Jacket [1]

Rain Protection

  • Lightweight Rain Poncho Rain Jacket

Sun Protection

  • Sun Goggles UV Protected Sun Cap or Head Buff

Hydration

  • Water Bottle / Hydrapack [1L] Thermos Bottle [1L]

Snacks & Energy

  • Energy Bar Trail Mix Dry Fruits

Personal Medicines

  • Prescribed Medicines [If any] ORS

Headlamp & Batteries

  • Head Torch Spare Batteries Power bank Camera [If needed]

Warm Accessories

  • Woollen / Fleece gloves [1 pair] Waterproof Gloves [1 pair] Woollen / Fleece Beanie Neck Protector

Toiletries & Hygiene

  • Toiletery Kit [1 set] Quick Dry Towel [1] Toilet Paper Wet Wipes

Documents & Cash

  • Govt. ID Proof Emergency Cash Emergency Contact Number

Backpack & Daypack

  • 50-60L Rucksack [1] 20-30L Backpack [1]

How to Reach

By Air

  • Nearest airport: Leh Airport (Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport) – approx. 215 km from Kargil
  • Direct flights available from Delhi, Mumbai, Srinagar & major Indian cities
  • From Leh, Kargil is reachable by road

By Road

  • Srinagar → Kargil: 205 km (scenic drive via Zoji La)
  • Leh → Kargil: 215 km
  • Manali → Kargil: 470 km (seasonal, via Atal Tunnel & high mountain passes)

By Train

  • Nearest railway station: Jammu Tawi Railway Station – approx. 470 km from Kargil
  • From Jammu, continue by road via Srinagar
  • Taxi & bus connectivity available
FAQs

Common questions answered

How difficult is the Mt. Kun Expedition?

Mt. Kun is classified as highly technical and extremely demanding. It is suitable only for climbers with prior 6000–6500 m expedition experience.

Is Mt. Kun the highest peak in India?

Mt. Kun (7077 m) is the second-highest peak entirely within Indian territory.

Is prior 6000 m experience mandatory?

Yes. Trekkers must have successfully climbed at least one 6000 m peak before attempting Mt. Kun.

What technical skills are required?

Advanced rope travel, fixed rope ascent/descent, ice climbing basics, glacier navigation, and crevasse awareness.

How cold does it get on Mt. Kun?

Temperatures can drop below -25°C, with severe wind chill above 6,500 m.

How long is the summit push?

Summit day can last 14–18 hours, depending on conditions.

Is supplementary oxygen used?

This expedition is conducted without supplementary oxygen, except for medical emergencies.

What are the biggest risks on Mt. Kun?

Altitude illness, extreme cold, weather volatility, crevasses, and exhaustion.

How is acclimatization managed?

Through structured camp rotations, load ferries, rest days, and conservative ascent profiles.

What happens if a climber cannot continue?

Immediate descent is enforced. Safety overrides summit goals.

Is helicopter rescue possible?

Rescue is extremely limited and weather-dependent. Self-sufficiency is essential.

What fitness level is required?

Elite endurance, strength, and high-altitude tolerance are mandatory.

How many camps are used?

Base Camp + Camp I + Camp II + Summit Camp.

Is Mt. Kun suitable for commercial beginners?

No. This is not a beginner or intermediate expedition.

What makes Mt. Kun different from Mt. Nun?

Mt. Kun involves longer technical sections and sustained altitude exposure.

Is mobile network available on the route?

Limited network up to Bakarthach. No network at Lady Leg and Summit Camp.

What is the role of load ferry?

Load ferry helps the body adapt to altitude by exposing trekkers to higher elevation temporarily and then returning to lower elevation for recovery. This strategy reduces AMS risk and increases summit success.

Does Terranova Expedition carry emergency oxygen?

Yes. Medical oxygen and first aid kits are carried for emergency response.

What safety measures are in place?

Safety plan includes:

  • Daily pulse & oxygen saturation monitoring
  • Guide-to-trekker ratio planning
  • Strict turnaround time
  • Weather window management
  • Trained team for rescue coordination
Will there be rope fixing?

Rope assistance is used for safety during steep incline and summit ridge traversal. The technical lead determines rope strategy based on snow & ice quality.

What if I feel unwell or have altitude sickness symptoms?

Immediate descent is enforced as safety rule. Our guides are trained in AMS, HAPE & HACE protocols.

What are AMS symptoms?

Headache, nausea, appetite loss, fatigue, dizziness, breathing difficulty, bluish lips. Strict medical reporting is mandatory.

Is the summit guaranteed?

No Himalayan summit is guaranteed. Safety and weather conditions determine decision.

Can I attempt the summit if I am struggling?

Only if medically cleared and within turnaround safety limits.

Is rescue helicopter service available?

Arrangements available depending on government and weather conditions.

Is travel insurance required?

Highly recommended.

What is the minimum age requirement?

Minimum recommended age: 16+ with fitness certificate.

Can older trekkers attempt this expedition?

Yes, if medically cleared.

Can international climbers join?

Yes — full support provided from Manali.

What makes Mt. Kun special?

Its semi-technical nature, beautiful training environment and outstanding summit ridge view make it one of the most respected Himalayan climbing programs.

What makes Terranova Expedition different?

Experienced Himalayan mountaineering team, safety-first approach, technical instruction, structured acclimatization and personalized expedition handling.

How is weather assessed for summit push?

Wind speed, snow firmness, cloud formation, temperature drop and avalanche possibilities are analyzed daily.

Can trekkers rent gear from Terranova?

Yes, subject to availability.

Is group customization available?

Private and professional-level batches available.

What are the next peak recommendations after Mt. Kun?

Friendship Peak, Kang Yatse II, Mentok Kangri, Mera Peak, Island Peak.

How many hours a day do trekkers walk?

5–7 hours on average; Summit Day is longest (10–13 hours).

What happens on the buffer day?

Used only for weather delay or safety extension.

Is tipping the team expected?

Optional but considered respectful.

Will I get a summit certificate?

Yes, after successful submission and safe return.

How do I register for the expedition?

Contact Terranova Expedition through phone, WhatsApp or website enquiry form.

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